Simple Lean To Post and Beam Pavilion

Cutting Dados for Lean-To

These are posts from my garden pavilion project that had a similar tie beam design. Where the tie beam sits in a dado of the post.

I mark the location of the dado on the posts then with my circular saw set to 2 inches deep, I cut a series of thin parallel slices.

Then I break off those wafters with a mallet. Then clean up the dado with a chisel.

I cut my posts and beams to length by marking a line around the 6×6 with a large square. Then I’ll make 4 cuts with my circular saw. Then finish off the cut with a handsaw.

A circular saw cutting a beam or post
I maket a series of thin parallel cuts with circular saw
A man using a chisel on a cedar 6x6
I use a chisel to clean up the dado cut in the posts
A man using a circular saw to cut a 6x6 post
I make 4 cuts around the ends of the posts to cut them to length
A man using a handsaw to cut a 6x6
Finish off the cut with a handsaw

I don’t have a beam saw that can cut deeper but, this works fine. These are 6×6 posts for my greenhouse project I built a couple of years back.

For the butt end of the tie beam I have smaller and longer lag bolts that are run in through the low 6×6 beam into the end of the tie beam. This helps to pull this beam into the dado. It’s not a great way to secure this, with a lag bolt going into end grain so, some angle brackets help here.

X-ray

Let’s look at an x-ray view. Here you can see the tie beam sliding in the dado cut in the lower 6×6 beam. This type of animation is pretty cool.

3D Xray animation showing dado details
The tie beam slides into the dado in the lower beam
3D Xray animation showing dado details
The tie beam in the dado in the lower beam
3D Xray animation showing dado details
Xray view showing detail of this joint
A man pointing to lag bolts in a beam
Two small but long lag bolts pull the butt end of the cross tie into the dado
A man indicating parts of a wooden pavilion
Two small but long lag bolts pull the butt end of the cross tie into the dado

Big Lag Bolt

I drilled and ran in a large lag bolt through the top of the beam and into each 6×6 post.

A man holding a long lag bolt
I use long lag bolts for securing the beams to the posts

On the higher beam I used some additional hardware to secure it to the tops of the posts.

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Metal hardware connecting a wooden post to a beam
Extra brackets used to secure the beams to the posts

In my greenhouse project (and others) I have secured beams to posts with a long lag bolt. I countersink space for the head and washer, then with the beam in place, I drill into the top of the post.

A man drilling into a beam with a long drill bit
I used a long half inch bit to drill through the beam and into the top of the post
A man ratcheting a lag bolt in a post and beam project
I used the same technique for securing a beam to a post on several projects
The recessed head of a lab bolt in a beam
The recessed head of a lab bolt in a beam

Then I’ll run in the lag bolt by hand with a socket wrench or impact driver. Some penetrating oil sprayed on the bolt makes this go a lot easier.

Extra Hardware

I built this pavilion myself so I used some additional hardware and brackets to help me as I put the beams into place. I screwed on these brackets ahead of time so I could quickly secure the beam once I lifted it into place.

Underside of wooden pavilion
Small galvanized brackets were employed to aid working solo on this project

These 6×6 Douglas Fir beams are heavy and I could only safely lift one end at time to get them up into place. I made a ladder (of sorts) by temporarily adding 2x4s across the posts. Then I could alternate a lift end by end up to the next 2×4 getting them higher and higher. Then the final lift onto the top of the posts was easy.

I also screwed some stops to the top of the posts so my lift would not overshoot.


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