Build your own firewood shelter with these Wood Shed Plans for Storage and Drying. These Woodshed Plans are available for download in PDF Format. This craftsman style Woodshed is made from Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir. Plans available for download in PDF Format.
Part 3 of 3
See the How to Video.
We heat our house with wood and need a drying and storage shed as close to the wood stove as possible. There’s a perfect spot right beside the house here that has easy access through the front or back door. It’s also close to the driveway for loading with my truck. The internal volume of the wood shed is 392 cubic feet (11.1 cu meters). A full cord of wood is (4’ x 4’ x 8’) 128 cubic feet (3.62 cu m). So stacked to the top of the walls, this shed holds 3 cords of firewood.
Building this Structure from the Wood Shed Plans – Part 3
Table of Contents
I had limited space so I stared everything by measuring the site and drawing up the wood shed plans first.
The rafters are now selected and the crown marked for their upside and orientation on the top beams. They are cut to length and the quarter ellipse drawn and cut on each end.
The rafters are 2x6 fir and the profiles are cut with the jigsaw in the same fashion as the beams, albeit with a shorter and thinner blade.
I stain all the rafters and let dry overnight.
One finished rafter is laid in place across the beams and the birds mouth marked.
A horizontal seat cut and a vertical plumb cut.
I use a block of wood that will mark the seat of the birds mouth equal to the width of the beam. On the wood shed plans I show the birds mouth cuts but, these are for reference only as you really need to mark and cut these during the build.
I take it down to the sawhorses and cut the birds mouth with a circular saw and finish with the jigsaw. It is test fitted then screwed into place.
The middle rafters are toe screwed and the end ones attach with a small galvanized angle bracket.
Rafter Support Blocks
Blocks are cut and installed between the rafters to add lateral support. One block between the front rafters, and another at the back. I also add these blocks to help straighten any rafters that may have a twist to them.
Alternatively, you can add these blocks at the time you are installing each rafter. That might be easier than trying to cut and fit each one after the rafters are in.
Strapping made of 1x6 or 1x4’s are laid over the top of the rafters and screwed in place. They will be the support and attachment points for the metal roof screws later. With this step I did add the walls to the wood shed plans but had to make some modifications based on the cedar stock I had.
While I’m waiting for the metal roof panel order to arrive, I can complete the carpentry by adding the walls. They are made of two by fours spaced across the cross members and girts. They are cut to length, stained, and screwed in place.
I use stop blocks clamped to the top of the cross member to make placement and alignment easier. I use spacing blocks between the slats for a consistent gap. I used two by fours for strength and also because a had a lot of them.
When the roofing arrived I rolled out tar paper over the strapping. Thee roll is three feet wide. I overlapped it and attached it with staples.
I made a marking stick from scrap trim to mark the location of the screws on the panel with a sharpie. This ensures each screw is properly spaced and hits the intended strap.
Install Metal Roof Panels
I slide the first panel into place, line it up and square it to the roof as best possible. Then hold it in place with a few screws. When I’m happy with the placing of this first panel I run in more screws.
From the other side of the shed I mark a panel and slid it up and onto the roof. Then slide it over and overlap the edge. Again, hold it in place with a few screws.
Then climb on the roof and screw each panel fully. Being careful to step only where there is strapping. This is repeated until all the panels are in place.
The last panel is measure and cut to size with a shear attachment on my drill.
The sheet metal cutting attachment for my drill that works very well. It’s fast, accurate, and leaves an edge that is not as sharp as with shears or snips.
After the last panel is in I add drip edge to the front high eave and the sides.
And the woodshed is done.
Now to split some wood and fill the woodshed. I added some dividers to the inside space to separate stacks. Grab a copy of the wood shed plans here.
Winter 2019 Update
Here’s a pic of the woodshed covered in snow. It’s holding up very well.
Thanks for reading!
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- Dewalt Compact Job-Site Table Saw (DW745)
- Dewalt 12″ Sliding Compound Miter Saw (DWS779)
- Dewalt Miter-Saw Workstation Tool Mounting Brackets (DW7231)
- Dewalt Heavy Duty Miter Saw Stand (DWX723)
- 10″ Bench Drill Press with Laser
- Dewalt 20V MAX Compact Drill/Driver set
- Dewalt 20V Battery Charger
- 20V Dewalt Batteries
- Milwaukee 7 1/4″ 15 Amp Circular Saw (6390)
- Dewalt Cordless 6 1/2″ Circular Saw
- 9″ Bandsaw similar to mine
- 12-Inch Disc Sander similar to mine
- Hobby Disc & Belt Sander
- Bosch 1375A 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder similar to mine
- 4-1/2-Inch Sander Backing Pad with Lock Nut
- DEWALT DWE6421 5-Inch Random Orbit H and L Sander
- Dewalt 20V XR Oscillating Multi-Tool (DCS355B)
- Metal Cutting Attachment Shear
- Electric Hand Planer
- Excellent Hammer
- Socket Set
- Wrench Set
- Woodworking Chisel Set
- Pipe Clamps
- Irwin Tool Quick-Grip Clamp Set
- Toggle Clamp Set
- Staple Hammer
- 48″ Spirit Level
- Johnson 7″ Speed Square
- Adjustable Combination Square
- Framing Square
- Aluminum Ruler
- Swanson 12″ Speed Square
- Carpenter’s Pencil
- Center Punch
Adhesive & Finish
Drill Bits & Blades
- Grizzly Master Forstner Bit, 31-Piece (H7694)
- Countersink Drill Set
- Brad Point Drill Bit Set
- Long Drill Bits
- Drill Guide
- Bosch 9″ Jigsaw Blades
- Bosch 6″ Jigsaw Blades
- Oscillating Tool Blade Pack
- I’m sure there’s something I forgot