DIY Wood Shed Plans – design build firewood Part 3

January 6, 2021

Build your own firewood shelter with these Wood Shed Plans for Storage and Drying. These Woodshed Plans are available for download in PDF Format. This craftsman style Woodshed is made from Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir. Plans available for download in PDF Format.

Part 3 of 3

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How to Build a Timber Frame Shed - Part 3 of 3
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We heat our house with wood and need a drying and storage shed as close to the wood stove as possible. There’s a perfect spot right beside the house here that has easy access through the front or back door. It’s also close to the driveway for loading with my truck. The internal volume of the wood shed is 392 cubic feet (11.1 cu meters). A full cord of wood is (4’ x 4’ x 8’) 128 cubic feet (3.62 cu m). So stacked to the top of the walls, this shed holds 3 cords of firewood.

Building this Structure from the Wood Shed Plans – Part 3

Rafters

I had limited space so I stared everything by measuring the site and drawing up the wood shed plans first.

The rafters are now selected and the crown marked for their upside and orientation on the top beams. They are cut to length and the quarter ellipse drawn and cut on each end.

Select rafters and draw profile on ends
Select rafters and draw profile on ends
Cut ellipse profiles with jigsaw - wood shed plans
Cut ellipse profiles with jigsaw

The rafters are 2x6 fir and the profiles are cut with the jigsaw in the same fashion as the beams, albeit with a shorter and thinner blade.

I stain all the rafters and let dry overnight.

One finished rafter is laid in place across the beams and the birds mouth marked.

Lay a rafter over the beams - wood shed plans
Lay a rafter over the beams

A horizontal seat cut and a vertical plumb cut.

Mark a set cut and plumb cut
Mark a set cut and plumb cut
The birds mouth, when cut, allows the rafter to fully sit on the beam - wood shed plans
The birds mouth, when cut, allows the rafter to fully sit on the beam

I use a block of wood that will mark the seat of the birds mouth equal to the width of the beam. On the wood shed plans I show the birds mouth cuts but, these are for reference only as you really need to mark and cut these during the build.

Cut the birdsmouth with a circular saw then finish with the jigsaw
Cut the birds mouth with a circular saw then finish with the jigsaw

I take it down to the sawhorses and cut the birds mouth with a circular saw and finish with the jigsaw. It is test fitted then screwed into place.

End rafters are secured with a small galvanized angle bracket
End rafters are secured with a small galvanized angle bracket

The middle rafters are toe screwed and the end ones attach with a small galvanized angle bracket.

Rafter Support Blocks
Timber Frame Firewood Shed - Support blocks are tapped in with a hammer between the rafters
Support blocks are tapped in with a hammer between the rafters

Blocks are cut and installed between the rafters to add lateral support. One block between the front rafters, and another at the back. I also add these blocks to help straighten any rafters that may have a twist to them.

These blocks add lateral support to the rafters - wood shed plans
These blocks add lateral support to the rafters
They also allow me to straighten rafters that have a twist to them - wood shed plans
They also allow me to straighten rafters that have a twist to them

Alternatively, you can add these blocks at the time you are installing each rafter. That might be easier than trying to cut and fit each one after the rafters are in.

Roof Strapping
Strapping is screwed over the rafters
Strapping is screwed over the rafters

Strapping made of 1x6 or 1x4’s are laid over the top of the rafters and screwed in place. They will be the support and attachment points for the metal roof screws later. With this step I did add the walls to the wood shed plans but had to make some modifications based on the cedar stock I had.

Walls
Pre-stained and cut 2x4\'s are screwed to the girts and cross members
Pre-stained and cut 2x4’s are screwed to the girts and cross members

While I’m waiting for the metal roof panel order to arrive, I can complete the carpentry by adding the walls. They are made of two by fours spaced across the cross members and girts. They are cut to length, stained, and screwed in place.

These 2x4\'s create a sturdy wall
These 2x4’s create a sturdy wall
I also pre-drilled each 2x4 while they were on the saw horses. This speeds up installation - wood shed plans
I also pre-drilled each 2x4 while they were on the saw horses. This speeds up installation

I use stop blocks clamped to the top of the cross member to make placement and alignment easier. I use spacing blocks between the slats for a consistent gap. I used two by fours for strength and also because a had a lot of them.

Roof Felt
Tar paper rolled over the strapping and stapled in place
Tar paper rolled over the strapping and stapled in place

When the roofing arrived I rolled out tar paper over the strapping. Thee roll is three feet wide. I overlapped it and attached it with staples.

Roof panels are marked with a sharpie where screws will go.
Roof panels are marked with a sharpie where screws will go.

I made a marking stick from scrap trim to mark the location of the screws on the panel with a sharpie. This ensures each screw is properly spaced and hits the intended strap.

Install Metal Roof Panels
Sliding the first roof panel into place - Timber Frame Firewood Shed
Sliding the first panel into place
The first panel is positioned square to the roof and a few screws run in - Shed Roof
The first panel is positioned square to the roof and a few screws run in

I slide the first panel into place, line it up and square it to the roof as best possible. Then hold it in place with a few screws. When I’m happy with the placing of this first panel I run in more screws.

Careful to step only where a strap supports me - Roofing the Firewood Shed
Careful to step only where a strap supports me

From the other side of the shed I mark a panel and slid it up and onto the roof. Then slide it over and overlap the edge. Again, hold it in place with a few screws.

Rip the last roof panel to width with drill cutter attachment - wood shed plans
Panels slid up and screws run in

Then climb on the roof and screw each panel fully. Being careful to step only where there is strapping. This is repeated until all the panels are in place.

A thin strip is what\'s needed to finish the roof
Rip the last panel to width with drill cutter attachment

The last panel is measure and cut to size with a shear attachment on my drill.

Eve and gable end flashing with a drip edge is screwed into place - wood shed plans
A thin strip is what’s needed to finish the roof

The sheet metal cutting attachment for my drill that works very well. It’s fast, accurate, and leaves an edge that is not as sharp as with shears or snips.

Eve and gable end flashing with a drip edge is screwed into place
Eve and gable end flashing with a drip edge is screwed into place

After the last panel is in I add drip edge to the front high eave and the sides.

And the woodshed is done.

Splitting some dry fir rounds
Splitting some dry fir rounds
Finally filling our new Timber Frame Woodshed. Stocked for winter - wood shed plans
Finally filling our new Timber Frame Woodshed. Ready for winter

Now to split some wood and fill the woodshed. I added some dividers to the inside space to separate stacks. Grab a copy of the wood shed plans here.

Winter 2019 Update

Here’s a pic of the woodshed covered in snow. It’s holding up very well.

Timer Frame Woodshed in snow

Thanks for reading!

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Timber Frame Firewood Shed Plans
a Timber Frame Style Firewood Shed that holds 3 cords
a Timber Frame Style Woodshed that holds 3 cords

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