Build your own Timber Frame Woodshed for Firewood Storage and Drying. Plans available for download in PDF Format.
Part 2 of 3
See the How to Video.
We heat our house with wood and need a drying and storage shed as close to the wood stove as possible. There’s a perfect spot right beside the house here that has easy access through the front or back door. It’s also close to the driveway for loading with my truck.
Building the Post and Beam Style Woodshed – Part 2
Make the Braces
I made the braces the day before using 2×8 full dimension red cedar.
This ensures the brace will be ninety degrees.
I cut the curved sections on the band saw.
I sand this cut smooth with a small hobby belt sander.
The flexible sanding belt follows the curve of the brace quite well. The braces will be attached to the shed posts and beams with a long lag bolt at a twenty degree angle to help pull the brace tightly into the corner.
I tilt the table on my drill press to this angle, mark the hole center, and clamp some simple stops to the table to hold the pieces in place.
A countersink with a forstner bit drops the head of the bolt neatly below the surface. Then I switch bits to drill the pilot hole for the shank of the lag bolt.
I mark the post and the beam one inch in from the outside edge to guide the brace location. I hold it securely in place and drill into the post and beam and drive in a lag bolt with an impact driver.
For this project, this simple brace is more than enough to give the structure rigidity. A brace with a proper tenon that is mortised into the post and the beam is always the best option, but for this small wood shed I think a flat mounted brace with a long, angled, lag bolt is enough.
Install more girts
On the other side of the shed I’ll attach the girts to the posts in the same fashion.
I countersink and secure the lower girts to the posts with lag bolts. And attach the corner braces.
At this point I’ll apply two coats of a semi-transparent stain with a small roller.
This green colour will match the paint on the house. It’s easier to stain the frame now than later when the roof and walls are on. I try to pre-stain as much as possible or when it’s convenient.
Now I’ll select the long front and rear beams and cut them to length. They are a bit too big for my miter saw stand so I’ll cut them with a circular saw. I mark all four sides with a square, make four cuts, then finish off the middle with a hand saw.
The beams have a quarter ellipse profile cut into the ends. I laid out this pattern on thin plywood and trace it onto both sides of the beams at each end.
I measure the distance between the posts and transfer these dimensions to the beams. I want these beams to sit down on the posts by an inch. I’ll cut these wide grooves with my circular saw and clean them up with a chisel. I think this looks better than simply attaching the beams to the posts on the flat, and it prevents the posts from twisting and the structure from racking.
I bought a new jigsaw specifically to cut these end profiles on the beams.
Some research led me to the Bosch with it’s seven amp motor and it’s sturdy guide that helps prevent the blade from wandering. I also bought some long blades that will cut at least six inches deep.
These blades are fairly wide so I wasn’t sure if I could cut the sharp elliptical radius. I decided to start from the end and work my way in and try to keep to the line as best I could.
The vibration moved the beam on the sawhorses so I had to stop and weigh them down.
I was happy with the result and I only had a small degree of wander or pushoff.
As before, I’ll chamfer the edges with a power plane and angle grinder.
The beams attach to the posts with a long lag bolt. I’ll countersink the head with a forstner bit, then drill a pilot hole straight and square with a drill guide, then finish with a bit slightly smaller than the bolt’s shank.
Now I’ll stain these beams and let dry.
To place the beams I enlisted the help of my wife Marilyn. It’s definitely a two person job. Red cedar is not a heavy wood, but too awkward to do this safely single handed. The rear beam fell into place easily.
The front beam was tight so I tapped it in with a hammer.
I drilled into the posts with a long bit, then secured the beams with big lag bolts. I’ll attach the braces to the posts and beams. Now I can remove the temporary bracing.
4×4’s for Back Wall and Front Door
The back wall of the shed has two vertical 4×4’s to add additional support to hold the weight of the stacked firewood. These are cut to length, screwed into the saddles, plumbed, then secured to the rear beam with screws. Across the back will be a pair of horizontal 2×6’s.
The front doorway is made from 4×4’s and installed same as the back wall except that they will have slots cut in to accept the front cross members.
They are identical to the girts except only shorter.
I countersink and drill the ends then tap into place. Then drill into the posts and run in some lag bolts.
I’ll hand tighten the last few turns with a socket wrench so I don’t strip the wood out or break a bolt.
The doorway header is cut to length on the miter saw then the curve copied from a brace and cut on the band saw. It’s toe screwed into place.
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- Dewalt Compact Job-Site Table Saw (DW745)
- Dewalt 12″ Sliding Compound Miter Saw (DWS779)
- Dewalt Miter-Saw Workstation Tool Mounting Brackets (DW7231)
- Dewalt Heavy Duty Miter Saw Stand (DWX723)
- 10″ Bench Drill Press with Laser
- Dewalt 20V MAX Compact Drill/Driver set
- Dewalt 20V Battery Charger
- 20V Dewalt Batteries
- Milwaukee 7 1/4″ 15 Amp Circular Saw (6390)
- Dewalt Cordless 6 1/2″ Circular Saw
- 9″ Bandsaw similar to mine
- 12-Inch Disc Sander similar to mine
- Hobby Disc & Belt Sander
- Bosch 1375A 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder similar to mine
- 4-1/2-Inch Sander Backing Pad with Lock Nut
- DEWALT DWE6421 5-Inch Random Orbit H and L Sander
- Dewalt 20V XR Oscillating Multi-Tool (DCS355B)
- Metal Cutting Attachment Shear
- Electric Hand Planer
- Excellent Hammer
- Socket Set
- Wrench Set
- Woodworking Chisel Set
- Pipe Clamps
- Irwin Tool Quick-Grip Clamp Set
- Toggle Clamp Set
- 48″ Spirit Level
- Johnson 7″ Speed Square
- Adjustable Combination Square
- Framing Square
- Aluminum Ruler
- Swanson 12″ Speed Square
- Carpenter’s Pencil
- Center Punch
Adhesive & Finish
Drill Bits & Blades
- Grizzly Master Forstner Bit, 31-Piece (H7694)
- Countersink Drill Set
- Brad Point Drill Bit Set
- Long Drill Bits
- Drill Guide
- Bosch 9″ Jigsaw Blades
- Bosch 6″ Jigsaw Blades
- Oscillating Tool Blade Pack
- I’m sure there’s something I forgot