Making Mistakes (just part of it)
Cause the first flush T is a specialized part that I ordered. And getting a replacement would put me back days and days. And there was rain in the forecast.
Then I took a break to calm down. I realized to fix it I had to separate those two T’s.
And as I mentioned the glue is unforgiving. I had to cut off most of the standard “T” and glue a new one on the first flush “T” on the other side. Later I’ll use a rubber coupling to adapt the messed up end of the first flush T to the pipe that heads to the tank.
So now back on track, I assemble the rest of the parts in their correct orientation.
Attach Plumbing to Wall and Gutters
This assembly is attached to a pipe that runs down the wall and into a 4″ drainpipe below ground and is loosely attached to the wall while I work on the section that goes from the gutter outlet to the first “T”.
After that’s in place I added more straps to hold these pipes to the wall. And glued a section of pipe for the first flush chamber along with the threaded section for the cap and small drain at the bottom.
With the new downspout assemblies in place with the bypass gate valves and first flush pipes, it’s time to get the other parts of the rainwater harvesting tank ready.
I bought some of the tank parts and decided to make some of them from existing fittings.
Rainwater Tank Float and Screen
The tank I bought has a 2 inch bulkhead fitting already installed. It’s for connecting more tanks together and for draining the tank quickly. Or, it can be used for drawing off water. I’ll be adding a float and screen to this tank so I can draw off the cleanest water that’s just below the surface and away from any sediment in the bottom.
So I need to add a ball valve to this existing bulkhead fitting. I first add a reducer down to one and a half inches. I didn’t have channel lock pliers big enough for these so I used a pipe wrench, which is overkill but worked. Then a short nipple, and then the ball valve.
I cut this hose down to a length appropriate for the height of this tank. I guesstimated this. There’s a barbed fitting that goes into the inside part of the bulkhead fitting first.
Then the clear flexible hose goes onto that. It was tough to get this on, even with some soapy water as a lubricant. Stainless steel hose clamps secure it. But, I’m sure that’s never coming off anyways.
Then the screen and float goes on the other end. And a lanyard is tied to the float. This will keep the screen up off the bottom of the tank when the water level gets low.
I’ll need to drill a hole in the tank for a bulkhead fitting for the hose that’s connected to this float. I’ll use a hole saw for this and position this hole 4 about inches off the bottom.