DIY Timber Frame Gazebo. Plans available for download in PDF Format.
Part 3 of 3
See the How to Video.
In this the last part of our Pavilion Construction, we’ll finish the roofing.
Part 3 – Roofing the Timber Frame Gazebo
Strapping made from one by eights is then screwed to the top of the rafters.
I space them about 8 inches apart and add an extra board at the top and bottom of the slope to cover the overhangs.
I laid the boards out on sawhorses and rolled on a coat of stain on what would be the underside and edges.
Even if you are used to being on roofs it can get get tricky sometimes. You always have to watch your foot placement walking on rafters and strapping.
Front Roof Rafters
The front roof rafters are 2×6 cedar.
I cut them to length, trace the ellipse profile on one end, then lay them across the front beams to mark the birds-mouth cuts.
I clamp the rafter to a pair of sawhorses to make the cuts with my jigsaw.
When they are done I chamfer the edges with power plane and angle grinder with a sanding disc.
A quick single coat of stain is applied with a small roller.
When dry, I take them back up to the beams and attach with screws.
Across these rafters I attach 1×6 strapping. I had a few extra so I spaced them a bit tighter.
Trim is ripped down on the table saw and stained and screwed to the end rafters and across the front and back edge.
Now to get the roofing on the front.
Tar paper is rolled out over the front roof strapping and stapled into place. It was a bit finicky around the front posts so it took a bit longer to get that cut and stapled in place.
The metal roof panels I ordered are 3 foot wide. So, I needed to figure how I was going to lay them out so the seams where in a good location. And, that cutting around the front posts was as easy as possible. And I didn’t want the last panel to be a thin strip that was not attached well. So that meant I needed to rip down the first panel before I cut the hole for the post.
I have a metal cutting attachment that fits onto a drill. This tool makes cutting these panels a breeze.
This first panel is laid in place and lined up with the edge of the roof. I use a sharpie to mark the post and brace edges on the panel.
Then back down to a sawhorse to cut out the shape. It was a bit too tight so I had to trim off a bit more and I could do that up on the roof.
Before I screwed this first panel down I set the second panel in place and overlap the first. I do this to check the alignment and to square the first two panels to my roof.
I measure and mark the screw locations so I’ll be consistent and evenly spaced across the entire front roof. And to be sure that all my screws hit wood underneath.
I use 1 inch screws with rubber washers for this.
The fourth panel ran into the far front post. So, like the first, I marked it’s location and cut out the shape with snips.
The last panel is ripped to length and a corner removed. The seam of the last two panels ran into the post. So they both needed cutting.
The last panel was ripped a bit long so I could bend up the side to channel water away from the edge. I do this with a hand-held folder, cut off the excess, and fine tune the bend with a hand seamer.
Finishing the Main Roof
I rolled out lengths of tar paper on the ground and cut them to the width of the main roof. It’s easier to do this here than try to manage a full roll up on the roof.
I line up the first piece along the bottom edge, with a bit of overhang, and staple in place.
Here’s where I have to be careful not to step in the gap between strapping boards and rip my tar paper.
I draw lines on a long 2×4 every 36 inches or so and use this as a marking guide for my panels. Then my screw holes are all in a line and hit the intended strapping board.
The first panel is the guide for all the rest. So I always double check my position and alignment with the edge and peak of the roof before running in screws with my impact driver.
I use the staple heads on the tar paper to guide my footing.
These panels went up pretty fast. The last one needed a narrow strip trimmed off to make it fit.
I had my roofing supplier bent up some rake and peak trim for me. I cut these to length and bent down a small tab on the lower edge before screwing into place.
On this edge I predrilled the holes with a small bit to make it easier to set the screw in the right place. This was an edge where I bent up the roofing panel.
And some peak trim goes on the upper edge of the front roof. This piece is more for aesthetics than function as there should be no rain hitting this edge of the roof.
The trim comes in 10 foot lengths so I have to piece sections together for coverage. On the main roof I start at the bottom with a small piece of rake trim. Then overlap a longer strip and screw it into place through the side.
To make the small tab I cut out two sections of the trim with tin snips then bend the remaining section over with a hand seaming tool.
One last side rake trim to do.
Now the peak trim goes on. I bend a small tab on this piece and it slips in under the side trim. Later I’ll add a small bead of caulking at this joint.
The last piece overlaps and the tab slips in under the rake trim.
And that’s about it!
See the How to Video.
Back to Part 2
Thank you for supporting us by using these affiliate links
- Dewalt Compact Job-Site Table Saw (DW745)
- Dewalt 12″ Sliding Compound Miter Saw (DWS779)
- 10″ Bench Drill Press with Laser
- Dewalt 20V MAX Compact Drill/Driver set
- Miter-Saw Workstation Tool Mounting Brackets – Dewalt(DW7231)
- Dewalt Heavy Duty Miter Saw Stand (DWX723)
- Dewalt 20V Battery Charger
- Bosch 1375A 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder similar to mine
- Bosch Jigsaw
- DeWalt Cordless Oscillating Tool
- Excellent Hammer
- Socket Set
- Angle Grinder
- Large Speed Square
- Small Speed Square
- Compound Square
- Mini Square
- Quick Clamps
- Angle Brackets
Adhesive & Finish
Drill Bits & Blades
- Forstner Set
- Drill Bits
- Countersink Bit
- Bosch 9″ Jigsaw Blades
- Bosch 6″ Jigsaw Blades
- Oscillating Tool Blade Pack
- I’m sure there’s something I forgot