How to Cast a Concrete Geometric Sphere (Basic & Advanced Techniques)

Filling the Mold

Place your funnel into the hole and start filling the mold with the wet concrete. I use a length of fencing wire to help the mix down the funnel if it gets blocked. The handle of a long wooden spoon or a length of wood dowel would also work.

Pouring concrete into the funnel to fill the casting mold
Pouring concrete into the funnel to fill the casting mold

Give the mold a slight shake from time to time to settle the mix. Check to see your progress. You may need to lift the funnel when the mold is almost full to allow the concrete to slide out. You can find large, sturdy funnels like this at most winemaking supply stores.

I shortened the stem of my funnel using a hacksaw as it was longer than I needed plus, it also tapered to a small diameter at the end that restricted the flow.

A large funnel used to fill the mold
A large funnel used to fill the mold

Use a small trowel or the edge of the shovel to smooth the top.

For concrete to properly harden it needs to be left undisturbed in a warm environment. 70 degrees F is ideal.

Unmolding and Curing the Geo-Sphere

After three days you are ready to unmold the geo-sphere. At this stage you will need a hair dryer or heat gun, some plastic sheet or thick garbage bag and a paint scraper. Start by removing all the fasteners. Then gently apply some heat to the lower mold cavity keeping the heat gun or hair dryer moving around the mold so the heat is even.

Removing the fasteners after 3 days hardening
Removing the fasteners after 3 days hardening

This should take about a minute and the plastic should not be so hot that you cannot touch it. We are looking to just slightly expand the plastic mold to free it from the concrete.

Warming the plastic mold with a heat gun
Warming the plastic mold with a heat gun

Now the bottom half of the mold should come free. You may need to gently pry it with a paint scraper.

Removing the bottom half of the mold
Removing the bottom half of the mold

Now pick up the casting and flip it over so you can heat the top half of the mold. Again, keep the heat gun moving all around the form for even, gentle heat. You may hear a click when the plastic becomes free of the casting.

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Removing the top half of the mold
Removing the top half of the mold

If you do have some bug holes caused by bubbles stuck to the upper walls of the mold, you can fill them with a cement paste. Add a little water to some portland cement to make a slurry. Work this mixture into the holes and smooth with a paint scraper. This will be polished smooth later so don’t try to be too fussy here. Later I’ll show you how to almost eliminate these.

Patching any bug holes with portland cement concrete mix
Patching any bug holes with portland cement concrete mix

Wrap the casting in plastic and leave to cure and strengthen for a few weeks. For the best results, keep the casting wet.

Wrapping the fresh casting in plastic to cure
Wrapping the fresh casting in plastic to cure

Use the paint scraper to remove the latex caulking. It should scrape off easily at this point. Any residue concrete stuck to the plastic can be removed by a light scrubbing with a soft brush or rag.

Scraping the latex caulk with a putty knife
Scraping the latex caulk with a putty knife

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