Running Wire to the Pump House
And I can now attach these wires to a rafter with cable ties.
The wires run down the rafters, along the downspout pipe, across the top of the surround and down and behind the pump house box.
I added lugs to the ends of these wires and then connect them to the bolt terminals on the board. And it worked out that the wires that came with this kit were exactly the right length to just make it to the terminals.
I’ll tape up the bare positive terminal. And now I can remove the cardboard from the panel.
Prepare the Water Filter
I have a spin down sediment filter that I will also mount on a board before adding it to the pump house. It has 3/4″ ball valve on either side of the filter and I add 90 degree elbows and a barbed hose adapter. The drip irrigation will have additional finer filters but this spin down will catch anything that makes it past the downspout screen.
And I can mount that in place.
Even though these 12 volt pumps have rubber mounting feet they still vibrate a lot. So I though I would try to reduce this with an additional rubber mount. I cut a piece of plywood and glued on a scrap piece of rubber flooring. Then I’ll glue this to the bottom of the pump house box.
I’ll use contact cement for this. You can also see from this angle that I added a plywood divider to the box. This was to keep the electrical side separate from the potentially wet pump side. In case I had a leak somewhere. I’ll set the pump in place and screw it to this small piece of plywood. The contact cement worked very well and I don’t think this board is ever coming off.
Secure the 12V DC Water Pump
The spin down sediment filter has a valve at the bottom so you can quickly remove some of the debris that builds up. I’ll drill a hole through the box and connect a half inch house for this sediment to drain.
A black 3/4″ water line runs in to the box from the bulkhead float fitting on the tank and is connected to the barbed fitting on the filter assembly.